Rupert Finegold, William Seitz
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
Discover the basics of silversmithing in this thorough guidebook. Provides you with the complete picture, including types and properties of metals, required tools, and numerous easy-to-understand techniques.
The best book on the market that covers text on smithing including the general principles of metalwork, types and properties of metals, tools, and techniques. Numerous diagrams, photos and illustrations enhance this in-depth, how-to book on silversmithing.
Top of the stake with a forging hammer. 43-4 43-5 43-6 43-7 43-8. Forging against the width to make the handle narrower and thicker, rather than stretching it. SINKING THE BOWL At this point the shaping of the ladle bowl is done by sinking in a wooden block with a depression (see Chapter 42). The wooden block (Fig. 43-9) is similar to one pictured in Figure 4-32. When sinking the ladle, concentrate the blows on the central section (Fig. 43-10). This doesn't mean that you will.
Is as important as the head: You cannot work one without the other, and if the handle is poorly made the hammer will fight you. Hammer handles should be made of seasoned hickory. They are available in various shapes, thicknesses, and lengths. All should be elliptical in section throughout to give a better grip and control. Purchase a handle (if you are fitting a handle to a head or are replacing one) as near as possible to the size and shape required, although you will probably have to make some.
Have made a working drawing, it is another matter to work your piece to match that ideal conception. The first problem you will encounter is how to cut the metal blank to match the proportions of the working drawing. One solution is to transfer the drawing to the surface of the silver to provide a guide for cutting. Another aid—and one that becomes useful later in the work as well—is to make a template to match desired curves and other difficult-to-reproduce shapes. For each problem you can.
Area stretches it and allows the tension in the outer edges to relax. 1-12. Here the center is open. Hammer outward from the center, but do not extend the hammering to the outer edge. 1-13. The tight central area of this rectangular piece is hammered to equalize tension between the central and peripheral areas. The solution lies in hammering or stretching the central portion to equalize the tension between the two areas. The central section should be handled with great care because the.
Our tray we will need an accurate working drawing that shows the tray in elevation and plane views (Fig. 37-10). The working drawings must be made to the size of the finished tray. If you plan to wire the edge of your tray, which we recommend for both strength and beauty, add " [6.4mm] to the finished size. This will be cut away after the wire has been soldered to the rim, but it must be allowed for in the working drawing right from the start. It is a safety margin necessary both to hold the.